7 Ways to Eliminate Model Train Derailments
Image via Wikipedia
Are you frustrated because your model trains derail from time to time?
This was a major frustration for me. I would fix one section of the track and the next day the train would derail on another section.
It frustrated me to the point of wanting to give the hobby away..!
A smooth running model train is a dream for most model train beginners. But it is actually quite easy to achieve with a little attention to detail.
Here are 7 ways to stop your model train derailing:
1 – Ensure every joint on your track is level, aligned and properly fitted.
Sounds like common sense? But poorly assembled track joints are the worst offenders for derailing model trains.
Slide your finger across the joint. It should feel level with the gap between the tracks kept to the absolute minimum. I solder my joints because this stops any problems with expansion and contraction opening and closing of the joints.
With a small file I am able to create a continuously level track and have a beautifully smooth running model train.
2 – Check your track gauge on joints, turnouts and frog assemblies.
Another common problem for model train derailments is incorrect track gauge. A tight track gauge will cause the wheels to climb up and derail off the track.
A wide track gauge will also derail your model train as the wheel flanges can not span the track properly. The gauge can be adjusted using a soldering iron to gently heat the rail, moving the rail to the correct position and allowing it to cool.
3 – Check your switch points for sharpness when they switch.
Some new switch points can be fairly blunt on the movable section where it strikes up against the stock rails. This can grab on the wheels and cause a model train derailment.
A small file can be used to gently smooth the moveable part of the points to allow a nice smooth transition. Remember to check the gauge in both positions.
4 – Check all your model train couplers.
A snagging coupler will cause model train derailments. Some new carriages can come with unpolished couplers which can catch and force derailments.
Clean off any rough edges and adjust the couplers for proper centering. The manufacturers usually provide these instructions.
5 – Add extra weight to your freight cars.
I find that most freight cars are too light and sometimes all the wheels do not contact the rails equally. By adding a small amount of weight to the cars your model train will run smoother and you will eliminate derailments, especially on the tight radius’s.
Just make sure you add the weight as low as possible to the car and in the centre, keeping a low center of gravity.
6 – Check all your wheel sets for proper operation.
Wheel sets that are out of gauge, not aligned or moving freely will cause your model train to derail. Check your wheel sets and make sure that your carriages are not crabbing and forcing the wheel flanges into the rail, making it prone to derail.
The carriages should rock freely to take up any small imperfections in your track.
7 – Lubricate the squeaks.
Sometimes the smallest drop of light oil will cure a problem with your model train derailing. An unlubricated or snaggy wheel, or coupler, can cause a slight tip over, or jar, which usually forces the wheel flange to snag the rail and derail your model train.
Oil attracts dust and can damage paintwork, so make sure you use only the smallest amount required.
Now you have no reason to put up with your model train derailing.
It usually comes down to a small bit of maintenance from time to time. With the quality most manufacturers are producing today, and some ongoing maintenance, you can make model train derailments a thing of the past.
Got any suggestions or comments? We would love to hear them…
Did you enjoy these tips? Then subscribe so you don’t miss the others… just give us your name and email address in the boxes to the top right of this page…
.
The Special Report "7 Model Train Mistakes To Avoid" (valued at $17.00)... Is FREE for a Limited Time
Just enter your first name and email address in the boxes below and click the "Click Here To Claim Your FREE Report" button. You will get instant access to your special report...
You Will Receive the Free Report in Your Email Inbox Immediately.
Your Privacy is Assured: Your email address will never be shared with anyone.
__________________________________________________________________________
# 8 – don’t let your 5 year old operate your model trains at full speed around tight corners…
I have a question. I have just recently started a new HO layout. I have many old freight cars with different couplers. I want to convert them all to new, modern couplers. There are so many to choose from, I would appreciate any recommedations you may have.
Thanks,
Bob
“I have a question. I have just recently started a new HO layout. I have many old freight cars with different couplers. I want to convert them all to new, modern couplers. There are so many to choose from, I would appreciate any recommendations you may have.”
Hi Bob
Basically any of the new couplers are great, just make all the couplers the same. What brand are your freight cars?
Good tips. I am just starting out and will welcome anything you can offer.
I have a question. I have been modeling model trains since I was little and I recently bought a 5-unit articulated double stack well car. I run my trains on 18″ radius curves, but the first and last wheel sets derail. How could I fix this?
If certain rolling stock derail while travelling in one direction , try turning then around the other way .
As for example a brake coach say it de rails whilst coupled with the brake end facing inwards , so by turning it around so the brake end faces at the back of the train . Yes it sounds odd but it does happen also certain wagons and coaches don’t like be coupled together in the train formation . Yet coupled apart in the same formation run fine with no de railments . The trick here is to make a note not to couple them together a sticky label on then usually does the trick .
This may sound odd but try it and it works , yes you will have checked every thing on the item before you do this .
Just a short comment on using styrafome, I have used styrafome from the beginning, and then some times I will use old screendoor screen to cover over the styrafome so that I use less mudd.I use wall joint compond (perfatape mudd for sheetrock) to cover most of the seanery over the styrafome, It works very well and is realy inexpensive. You call also put your molded rocks inplace while your laying down the mudd. and you can doany sanding if you need to smooth out anyplace you need.